(Français) Un repas très mémorable à Oporto: Sessanta Setenta

On trouve, parmi les ruines de ce qui était autrefois le couvent de Monchique, au-dessus de la route pleine de trafic qui épouse le Douro et relie les quartiers de Cais de Ribeiras  et de Foz, dans le quartier de Massarelos à Porto, un restaurant très intrigant offrant une cuisine innovante et riche d’âme. C’est déjà une aventure que de réussir à dénicher ce restaurant hors des sentiers battus : d’abord descendre une rue pavée qui serpente jusqu’à l’entrée, ensuite suivre un passage éclairé de chandelles avec les ruines sur votre droite pour enfin arriver au « Sessenta Setenta » (60/70 traduit littéralement, un jeu de mots pour  on s’assoit/on se laisse tenter). La décoration est moderne mais sobre – des murs de granit aux pierres apparentes, des planchers aux tons chauds et un éclairage intimiste invitant à s’attarder tout en jouissant de l’admirable vue qui porte de l’autre côté du Douro jusqu’à Gaia où les différentes marques de Porto illuminent la nuit de leurs enseignes dominant les mille et une lumières du paysage urbain nocturne. Et quelle cuisine ! J’ai particulièrement apprécié l’entrée, le patatu , un plat chaud de fèves tendres, fromage de chèvre, huile d’olive et aromates, suivi d’une morue dorée (bacalhau dourado), soit  un lit d’oignons doux blanchis et imbibés de mayonnaise recouvert d’une morue pochée elle-même couronnée d’une délicieuse meringue dorée juste à point d’où le terme dourado - un vrai régal tant pour le gout que pour la consistance. La marquise de chocolat, dense avec son coulis de framboise, est un concentré de saveurs qu’une simple bouchée vous permet de garder longtemps en bouche. Le chef Francisco Meireles, aussi secret et excentrique que son établissement, passe son temps entre la cuisine et le restaurant remplissant discrètement les verres de ses clients qu’il couve du regard.

Rua Sobre o Douro, 1A, Oporto

Tel: 223406093

 

 

A most memorable restaurant in Oporto

Among the ruins of what once was the Monchique convent, above the busy road that hugs the Douro river connecting Cais de Ribeiras to Foz in Oporto’s Massarelos district, is an intriguing restaurant offering innovative and soulful cuisine.Just finding this off-the-beaten track restaurant is an adventure: down a remote winding cobblestone street to the entrance, then take a candlelit passageway with the ruins on your right, and you arrive to Sessenta Setenta (literally translated 60/70, a pun on sit and try). The décor is modern minimalistic - exposed granite walls, warm wood floors, and mood lighting inviting you to linger, with a spectacular view across the Douro to Gaia, where the Port houses show off their lit up logos amidst sparkling lights of an urban night landscape. The food! I have enjoyed over and over again the appetizer patatu, a warm molded dish of tender fava beans, goat cheese, olive oil and herbs; followed by bacalhau dourado, a bed of sweet blanched onions moistened with golden mayonaise, topped with poached salt cod that is crowned with a savory egg-white meringue baked until just golden or dourado - a true taste and textural experience. The dense marquise de chocolate with a raspberry coulis is concentrated in flavor and a bite goes a long way. Spending time between the kitchen and the dining room, discretly refilling glasses with wine as he checks on the diners is chef Francisco Meireles, secretive and eccentric as the place itself. Rua Sobre o Douro, 1 A, Oporto Tel: 223406093

Cher lecteurs, à bientôt le blog sera traduit en français.....

Food in the Douro Part 2

Last Spring I wrote about 2 local restaurants, Douro DOC and Cacho d’Oiro, and a foodie’s passion for bolas. I have a couple of additions to add for when you come to visit us! In Regua, next to the train station, is Castas e Pratos, located in what previously was the station’s warehouse or armazem.  Rustic turned modern here, and with great panache: open ceiling with wooden beams and exposed heating/AC ducts, glass floor to peer down at  the restaurant's 1st floor beneath your feet, warm and organic wall colors and built-in wood cabinets showing off  a remarkable display of Douro red and white wine and, of course, port.  To note: wi-fi in the bar area, where wines by the glass and appetizers are served at a community-style high table with bar stools around, acting as a catalyst to start conversations with those next to you. OH, and THE FOOD! Classic and modern, never forgetting the Douro flavors.  On a recent winter visit my sister and I thoroughly enjoyed pata-negra prosciutto wrapped grilled asparagus drizzled with warm local honey; slow cooked wine-imbibed baby goat, cabrito, falling off the bone on top of a deep-flavored fava bean ragout; and a port wine semi freddo with bittersweet chocolate ice cream. The impressive wine list, by the glass or bottle, will keep me coming back and the service speaks for itself.

http//: www.castasepratos.com

Just across the street from destination restaurant Douro DOC, is the more simple but all the same very valid AzDouro, 5 minutes from our quinta in Folgosa.   As a family we have enjoyed meals here after early evening waterskiing on the Douro, finishing after the sun goes down and not in the mood to cook at home.  All the more reason to savor the beauty of the Douro in the summer, with the cooling evening breeze and the glistening river at dusk.   My favorite dish remains salt cod or bacalhau with potatoes topped by a béchamel sauce, a melt-in-your mouth pleasure.  Roasted bacalhau with crunchy corn-bread broa crumbs and wild boar with chestnuts are 2 other worthy dishes to try.  Light dishes area also served, all to be enjoyed with a fantastic view of the Douro!

http//: www.hotelfolgosadouro.com

Thanks for your reading and enjoy a glass of Quinta do Tedo!

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 Chers Lecteurs, nous Vous présentons le premier blog de notre série mensuelle traduite en français.....

Au printemps dernier je vous avais parlé de 2 restaurants du coin, le « Douro DOC » et le « Cacho d’Oiro » et de la passion d’un gourmet pour les bolas. Je voudrais en ajouter 2 autres à decouvrir lorsque vous viendrez nous rendre visite !

A Regua, près de la gare, se trouve le “Castas e Pratos”, un établissement situé dans un ancien entrepôt ferroviaire ou armazem. L’intérieur rustique a été modernisé avec panache/talent : des plafonds aux poutres en bois et des conduites de chauffage apparentes, un sol en verre qui permet de voir le 1er étage du restaurant sous vos pieds, des murs aux couleurs chaudes et naturelles, des placards encastrés exposant une palette remarquable de vins blancs ou rouges du Douro, sans parler bien sûr des Portos. A noter : la Wi-Fi dans le secteur bar où verres de vins et amuses gueules vous sont servis sur une table haute entourée de tabourets de bar et ouverte à tous, servant de catalyseur pour engager la conversation avec vos voisins de table. OH et puis QUELS METS ! A la fois classiques et modernes, sans jamais oublier les saveurs typiques du Douro. Lors d’un récent séjour hivernal  ma sœur et moi-même avons particulièrement apprécié des asperges cuites au gril enrobées de jambon patanegra (canard) servies avec un coulis de miel chaud produit localement; un cabrito, chevreau mariné au vin et cuit à feu doux, tendre à souhait sur son ragoût savoureux de fèves ; et pour finir un parfait au porto avec sa glace au chocolat. L’impressionnante carte des vins, au verre ou à la bouteille, suffirait à me faire revenir, sans parler de la qualité du service.

www.castasepratos.com

Juste de l’autre coté de la rue par rapport au « Douro DOC », à 5 minutes de notre quinta à Folgosa, se trouve l’ »AzDouro », peut-être plus simple mais tout aussi valable. Notre famille y a pris des repas fort appréciés après des après-midi de ski nautique dans le Douro jusqu’à la tombée de la nuit quand nous était passée l’envie de faire la cuisine à la maison. Une raison supplémentaire pour jouir de la beauté du Douro l’été quand au soleil couchant nous pouvons admirer les scintillements du fleuve alors que la brise du soir nous rafraichit. Mon plat préféré reste le bacalhau (morue salée) accompagné de pommes de terre en sauce béchamel, un vrai régal ! Deux autres plats méritent l’attention : la morue braisée accompagnée d’un pain de maïs émietté et croustillant ainsi que le sanglier aux châtaignes. Des plats plus légers sont également proposés, tout cela en jouissant d’une vue magnifique sur Le Douro !

www.hotelfolgosadouro.com

Notre formidable Tawny

Merci de votre soutien et n'oubliez pas de déguster un verre de Quinta do Tedo !

~Kay Bouchard

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Travel tips - the Douro Valley

The region awaits your visit

Now this is very subjective, as I have my tastes and you have yours.  With that said, I do believe that I can share with you my very pleasurable experiences (outside of the realm of wine and food), especially for one passionate about the out of doors, culture and history and, ultimately, discovering. If I had 4 days to visit the Douro Valley here are some places that would be part of my itinerary…..

Museu do Douro – located 15 minutes away in Regua, the commercial hub of the Douro Valley, this museums does a great job in educating the visitor about the Douro and port crafting, along with having excellent exhibits of individual artists.  Not to miss are the video of the seasons in the vineyard and the gift shop, that in addition to offering a vast selection of Douro port, wine and olive oil, has an extensive selection of made-in-Portugal products, books and posters that are uniquely Portuguese in packaging and in content. http://www.museudodouro.pt

Visiting the Foz Côa Archaeological Parka good 2- hour drive from the quinta, via picturesque and windy roads going towards Spain, Foz Côa is a UNESCO world heritage site and the river Coa valley holds 30 paleolithic rock art sites dating to 25000 years ago.  Book in advance for a guided tour and travel back in time.  Amazing to think that these outdoor rock gravings remain so unspoiled, considering the harsh elements of nature.

http://www.cm-fozcoa.pt/turismo/Paginas/MuseudoCôa.aspx

Lamego – to the south of Regua, this ancient episcopal (!) city, with remarkable Baroque architecture, is charming with its many public gardens,  and ease to walk around and to visit, all catered to the human dimension. A highlight is to climb the 600 granite steps leading to the pilgrimage church of Nossa Sehora dos Remédios, set in a forested park, stopping at various levels to take it all in!

http://www.travel-in-portugal.com/Lamego/

Palacio do Mateus – to the north of the quinta close to Vila Real, stands 18th c Mateus (home to the rosé wine exported throughout the world), considered a sublime example of Baroque architecture.  Enjoy the tour of the palace, and be reminded of Portugal’s world dominance centuries ago with furnishings, documents, ceramics, maps and overall grandeur.  Not to miss is the gardens, with the minutely sculptured hedges, perennial beds, shallow granite pools and the remarkable 12 m high x 10 m wide x 35 m long cypress tree tunnel, that will inspire you to walk through numerous times. Perhaps you will be lucky and be there when it is being pruned, a true feat, or when an evening summer concert is taking place and Mateus’ ambiance becomes truly seductive.

http://www.casademateus.com/home.html

This is a start for what the visitor can enjoy while staying at our quinta or in the area, combined with the dolce vita of fare niente that makes any holiday so special.  The region is attractive because it is less known and less contrived, and as Frank Bruni in a New York Times travel article, so perfectly puts it, in the Douro region “you can discover this country on your own (and) fashion it for yourself”.

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Olive Harvest 2010

We tried something different this year.  Given that our olives, as our grapes, are organically grown, we do not use any chemical fertilizers at the quinta.  This year we pressed the olives at a mill that accepts only organically-grown olives.  Why? Because, at the azenha (olive mill) water is used to clean the olives before pressing, and if our olives are rinsed in the same water as olives that have not been grown organically, the chemical residue from non-organic olives, undermines making an organic olive oil.

2010 was an excellent olive harvest, with abundant and healthy fruit.   We picked the olives earlier (we have 6 hectares of olive trees with average age 50 to 60 years, main varieties to include cordovil, verdial and moleirinha), starting mid-Nov instead of around 10 December, in an effort to add a slight piquantness to the oil, that results from an earlier harvesting time.  Not to copy the Tuscans, known for harvesting olives mid-Oct, to strive to obtain a picquant flavor with a certain bite!  While our olive oil is known for a rounder and softer quality, a style preferred by the Portuguese and that we love, we are always looking for ways excel, and adding a little spiciness, may result in something also delicious.

Let us know what you think when you try our 2010 olive oil, we love to know what our customers think and we really do appreciate your business.

Late autumn color

FYI: the quinta restoration is 60% finished, 4 agroturismo rooms will be ready soon, hopefully by Easter.

Restoration coming along

FYI: we currently have a flock of sheep staying at the quinta in a paddy at night and grazing all day long at the quinta.  Two-fold in scope: they are hungry critters and we need to keep growth in check in the vineyard and around the olives.  Great solution: man and animals live happily together!

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End of Year 2010

Dear all Quinta do Tedo friends, I am, very unfortunately, without camera and so have no photos to share with you, as I had intended to for my December blog’s topic.  So, instead, I wish you all a most happy, healthy and prosperous 2011, with many occasions to be with loved ones and to toast  with a glass (or glasses!) of Quinta do Tedo!

I thank you all for your support over the years, as we work to make Quinta do Tedo an ever-improving and dynamic winery and estate.  We feel very fortunate to have accomplished thus far our goals: to make unfailing quality products, be it port, wine and olive oil; to maintain our “working farm” status and respect the environment by being sustainable since years and by implementing organic viticulture since July 2010; and to receive visitors and customers with hospitality, warmth and unending care.

Our bird just keeps on singing……

Kay Steffey Bouchard

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