Back at Quinta do Tedo since late June, I spend a lot of time walking in the vineyards to “catch up” from my time away. There is always something to note and currently véraison catches my eye. Véraison is the stage when the grape skins change color. Think of going from green grapes (or vert in French) to the final grape variety color. During this time the grape variety’s flesh transforms from acid and vegetal flavors to sweetness, tannin, and fruit flavors.
Love this grape cluster – a curious concentration of 4 purple grapes!
Since we have 20+ red varieties growing in our Tedo vineyards that undergo vérasion at slightly different times, a vineyard walk at this time of the year brings surprises – some clusters a tapestry of green, pink, red and purple, while others are green. To think that one day they will all share the dark indigo/purple Douro grape color palette is almost hard to believe.
A cluster that is just starting to fill out – later flowering from other vines, and véraison happens later.
During véraison the grape sugar levels rise as the acid levels fall. The balance between sugar and acid is one of the most critical aspects of producing quality wine. As the grapes ripen the concentration of phenolic compounds like anthocyanins replace the green color of chlorophyll in the grapes, which brings the final dark purple color to our grapes. The sugar levels increase from the storage of carbohydrates coming from the roots and trunk of the grapevine and from the sucrose produced by photosynthesis breaking down, that transfers from the leaves to the grapes.
Almost comical - what a mixed bag of growth!
Vineyard manager Angelo tells me that this year has been challenging. Higher than normal temperatures and more precipitation during the critical fruit set between March and May resulted in more work to maintain the vineyard’s healthy condition. Using organically accepted products, mainly applied by hand, as only a small proportion of our vineyards planted 10 years ago are mechanized, means more labor. More time is spent trimming the shoots growing from rain and warm weather, vines are vigorous! The tender shoots are not necessary for the ripening and are more subject to attract diseases, an organic approach to vineyard challenges. Presently the danger is behind us and now our grapes are healthy and thriving.
From a previous harvest – to show you the almost ripe indigo purple cluster ready to pick.
100 days from when the grape cluster flowers is the theoretical indication of when the harvest starts, so early September 2021 for Quinta do Tedo, as in most years. Pintor to “paint” is Portuguese for vérasion. I love the Portuguese version – and indeed this is how the fruit is looking today – a sketch that promises to be a beautiful painting!