I am a walker, and I love visual aesthetics, exploring and making simple and very satisfying discoveries. Do you, as well?
We work hard at Quinta do Tedo, and when we need to “chill” our favorite place, about 1.5 hours from Quinta do Tedo, is around Foz, on the Atlantic coast where the Douro flows into the ocean.
This month’s blog is not wine/Port-centric. I know many visitors come to Quinta do Tedo by way of Porto. The historic center is lovely, although at times too busy for my taste. Come to Foz, a quieter part of the city, great for walking along quaint cobblestone streets and the fresh waterfront, people-watching, seafood, cultural enrichment, and more!
Images:
Serralves Art Museum – Claes Oldenburg and Coosje Van Bruggen outdoor sculpture
Entrance to Duas Portas – along tram line connecting Foz to the historic center
My favourite place to sleep in Foz is Duas Portas, a home away from home for the Bouchard Family. Simple, well-appointed, comfy beds, excellent breakfasts and an honor wine and espresso corner in the lounge - this B&B is quiet and inviting. The hosts, Luisa and Miguel, and the staff are warm, there to help the guests, and the nicest individuals you could meet.
The back of the hotel is a large park with sitting areas for relaxing, the living room has a great selection of records to listen to and architectural books to inspire you (Luisa and her parents are well-known local architects). The vibe is understated and cool. What else do you need?
Images:
Cross the street from Duas Portas and enjoy the Douro walk towards the Atlantic
Douro River flanks the north side of Quinta do Tedo and joins the Atlantic 100 kms to the west at the Foz lighthouse.
Stop for a mid-morning coffee or fresh-squeezed orange juice at Tavi in Foz. Choose from an array of delicious Portuguese pastries, invitingly showcased at the entrance, to enjoy at a table overlooking the Atlantic - oh lá lá!
Head down to the coastal walk and take in the beauty of the Atlantic and her crashing waves and endless horizons. Bike lanes border the walk, and you can join in with meandering individuals, joggers and runners, generational families walking abreast, Santiago de Compostela backpackers, skateboarders - you name it - a cross section of humanity who all share a common appreciation of the coast and simple life pleasures - sunshine, salty air, and strolling. People-watching here is at its finest!
Continue north and pass the eye-catching installation at Matosinhos’ rotunda, designed by New York artist Janet Echelman in 2005. Originally coined “she moves” by the artist, for the ongoing swinging in the wind, the Portuguese renamed it “anémona”, for the resemblance to an anemone’s opening and closing. This sculpture pays tribute to Matosinhos, the fisherman’s land.
Speaking of fishermen, a visit to the Conservas Pinhais sardine factory in Matosinhos is not to miss. Put on a protective cloak (sure to bring a laugh or two) and enjoy the interactive tour to understand the A to Z of canning sardines. In the last century there were 50+ canning factories in Matosinhos; today, Pinhais is one of the few remaining.
The tour starts with a short and poignant film of the Portuguese fishing industry, its challenges and success, followed by a visit to the original offices dating to the 1920s, filled with historic memorabilia including export maps, order stamps, ledger books.
Walk through the factory in-action - workers prepare tins with pickles, chili peppers, olive oil and other ingredients unique to each conserve. Learn how to wrap the tins in paper (still done by hand) and, the grand finalé, taste an array of sardine and other fish conserves! You can even have lunch at Pinhais.
Images:
Conservas Pinhais visit (photo taken during COVID times!)
Fresh to-be-conserved sardines.
Nuri sardines wrapped in signature yellow paper.
Afterwards stroll past Casa de Arquitectura, formerly a winery and today a cultural space with exhibits and a wine shop, Garage Wines. Walk back, taxi, Uber, or bus back along the coast, or…
Head on to explore Matosinhos’ bustling traditional market, lie down with a good book or for a siesta in Parque de Cidade, or enjoy an aperitif at Junior (Matosinhos) or Botella (Foz) followed by charcoal-grilled seafood at Tito 2 (more traditional) or 5 Oceanos (more refined).
Enjoy your Foz exploration and, before or after, be sure to follow Douro from the Atlantic inland and visit us at Quinta do Tedo.
~ Saúde, Kay
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