The GR14 is the trans-European Wine Route that connects the important wine regions of Alsace in France, Duero in Spain and, now also, Douro Valley in Portugal, the oldest demarcated wine region in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Last month, the Municipality of Armamar (Portugal’s Mountain Apple Capital, a charming historic mountain village 13 km from Quinta do Tedo) inaugurated a new 36 km section of the GR14 meandering 500-900 meters above Douro River along quiet country roads through vineyards, cork forests, olive, cherry, apple and almond orchards.
GR stands for grande rota, or big route - these certified trails are well-marked with red and white stripes and link various PRs (pequena rotas, or small routes, marked with red and yellow stripes) together throughout the region. The Portuguese section of the GR14 now extends to the Atlantic Coast, ending in Vila Nova de Gaia which houses the historic Port wine cellars across Douro River from the city of Porto.
Waking up last weekend to what’s left of late Spring’s cool and overcast weather, I headed out to trek tidbits of the new GR14 - one that extends the 4.5 km PR1AMM around our estate further up along Tedo River, and the other that starts in Armamar’s historic city center and descends down towards Folgosa, a small town along Douro River 5 km from our estate.
Besides privileged panoramic views, I encountered abandoned palaces, schist-staked vineyards, dry stone wall terraces and traditional gardens full of Spring lettuce, onions, green peppers and peas. The vineyards were laden with freshly-set grape clusters that would eventually ripen into harvest 2023, the olive trees were exploding with white flowers, and the cherry trees were heavy with bright red fruit - the pickers were taking their post-lunch siesta. Bonnelli’s eagles soared overhead, coasting on mountain air currents, and the forest shrub hummed with bees and birdsong.
Hiking, bicycling and kayaking have become popular activities for Douro Valley tourists over the past 5 years. It’s great to see an autonomous push for active and sustainable tourism from our region’s small and proud municipalities - their preserving, renovating and promoting natural, historic and cultural resources besides wine and gastronomy helps diversify the tourism offer, encourage longer stays, extend seasonality beyond summer and share economic growth amidst more stakeholders.
Before heading back to Quinta do Tedo from Armamar, I made an essential pitstop for lunch at my favorite bakery, Pastelaria Apple, right in front of Armamar’s 12th century medieval church. Here you can try bola - soft brioche bread baked with various savoury fillings - I suggest the bacalhau and onion bola, the classic chicken bola, the mixed ham, chouriço and bacon bola, or the more hearty vinha d’alho bola stuffed with pork marinated in red wine, garlic and bay leaves. A traditional bolinho de maça apple cookie for dessert will have you refueled and ready to hit the next trail, or sit back and relax with a glass of Port.
~ Odile Bouchard